Sanso Amanosato

We've stayed at some of the finest Auberge ryokans in Japan - Arcana, Sankara, Tosayama... but as far as dinner quality goes, in our minds Sanso Amanosato is the unexpected winner in our book. We chose to stay here after spending a night in a Shukubo (Temple lodge) in Koyasan. Sanso Amanosato appealed to us in several ways - first, it was away from Koyasan but convenient enough to get to (at least by car, where it's about a 30 minute drive.) Second, it's just minutes away from Niutsuhime Jinja, a UNESCO-designated shrine that would conclude our touring of the Koyasan area. And finally, after an incredible Shojin Ryori meal (Buddhist devotional Japanese vegan cuisine) the prior evening, we wanted to mix it up by having French-Japanese fusion for our second night's dinner. Given the limited word-of-mouth of this property - both by Japanese and English-writing experts - we were hopeful but did not have super high expectations. So say that this property exceeded them would be a massive understatement. Founded in 2013, Sanso Amanosato is a modern ryokan in a remote countryside region that's away from the main tourist circuit. If it wasn't for Niuhitsume Jinja nearby, this area would be a complete backwater. Even with it, the surrounding environment is sleepy, tranquil and as rural as it gets, and that's part of the charm. The ryokan only has 8 guest rooms, and the modern, mostly wooden architecture of the property really blends nicely with the environment with its muted and earthy tones. The ryokan gives out a rustic vibe, but not so much that it feels like you're sacrificing comfort and amenities when staying there. We booked one of the Western-style Suite rooms; it offers separate living room / bedroom and is 64 square meters (just shy of 700 square feet) in size, which is a bit on the small side when it comes to top category rooms at luxury ryokans in Japan. However, the extremely high vaulted ceilings, combined with the massive windows, helps to give the Suite a bright and airy feel that belies the room's actual dimensions. And, they managed to include two separate toilets in the Suite - not mandatory, but something that Mrs. KI-NRT definitely appreciates (she has her own designated bathroom at our house.) And like any proper luxury ryokan, the bathroom is filled to the hilt with individually-wrapped bathroom amenities - moisturizer, razor blade, shaving foam and aftershave, toothbrush/toothpaste, shower cap, cotton swabs, brush/comb, hair dryer... if you forget to bring an essential toiletry item, Sanso Amanosato has you covered. The in-room bath is not Onsen (natural hot springs) - for that, you'll have to walk over (about 100 feet maximum) to one of three private Onsen baths; there are no "communal ones." Rather, each of the three baths are for private use by guests staying at the ryokan. And given that only 8 groups can stay there at any given time, you're almost guaranteed of the ability to take a soak in the Onsen, any time you want. The