Forget Dali! This thousand-year-old Bai village is truly a hidden gem
Traveling in early September 2026 with a friend (2 people total), the trip from Dali cost about CNY 350 per person. Nuodeng Ancient Village is hidden deep in the mountains of Yunlong County, Dali, Yunnan. It is a thousand-year-old, uncommercialized Bai village with very few tourists and a very slow pace. The whole village is built on the mountain, has no general admission fee, and focuses on an authentic, immersive experience. This entire guide is based on my personal experience, packed with practical tips, and perfect for beginners who want to avoid the crowds.
Detailed itinerary
[Nuodeng Ancient Village, Nuodeng Town, Yunlong County, Dali Bai Autonomous Prefecture, Yunnan Province] 9:00 AM – 12:00 PM
Transport: Take a direct minibus from the Dali Xiaguan Xingsheng Road Bus Station to Yunlong County. Buses run every half hour starting at 7:10 AM, with the last bus at 4:30 PM. The fare is CNY 42, and the trip takes about 3+ hours. Once in Yunlong County, transfer to a microbus or electric tricycle to reach the village. It is about 7 km, all uphill, and costs CNY 20–25. You can only enter the village on foot from the entrance; there is no other transport.
Tickets: The ancient village is free to enter with no general admission fee. A joint ticket for Yuhuang Pavilion is about CNY 30. Be sure to purchase tickets through official scenic area channels.
Activities: Start your tour at the Ancient Salt Well at the village entrance. This is the soul of Nuodeng's 2,000-year history and still seeps brine today. You can try a salt-brine egg for CNY 5. Walk up the 72 stone steps, passing the Salt Administration Office ruins and the Huang Family Memorial Archway. Arrive at Yuhuang Pavilion around 11:00 AM—the highest point in the village. Climb up to overlook the entire village, where Bai-style houses are layered along the hillside and the Nuo River winds through the valley below. Early September is peak season for air-drying ham; every household in the village has rows of Nuodeng ham hanging in their courtyards, with rose-colored oil seeping out and a salty, savory aroma filling the air.
Insider tips: The entire village consists of uphill stone paths, so be sure to wear non-slip sneakers; do not wear sandals or high heels. Before 9:00 AM, there are the fewest people and the light is softest, making it the best time for photos. A full tour of the ancient village takes about 4–5 hours.
[Big Green Tree Area, Nuodeng Ancient Village, Nuodeng Town, Yunlong County, Dali Bai Autonomous Prefecture, Yunnan Province] 2:00 PM – 5:30 PM
Transport: Entirely on foot. You rely on your own two legs within the village; there are no other means of transport.
Activities: Head toward the mountainside. In the center of the village, there is a 600-year-old Big Green Tree. Under the tree, there are cafes and teahouses where you can relax with a cup of Nuodeng salt coffee. Behind the Big Green Tree is the gatehouse of the Tiju Office, and the Confucian Temple is nearby. Continue upward to the ham workshop to see the entire process of curing and drying the ham. In September, the autumn air is crisp and the sky is clear. In the afternoon, the light filters through the layers of roofs and spills onto the bluestone paths, making every snapshot feel like a story.
Practical tips: 3:00 PM – 6:00 PM is the best time of day for lighting. Wearing plain-colored clothing against the background of Bai earthen walls makes for the best photos. Local households eat dinner early, so it is recommended to have dinner before 5:30 PM; you might not get a hot meal if you are too late. Signal on the mountainside is occasionally unstable, so it is recommended to carry a small amount of cash.
[Nuodeng Ancient Village and Taiji Water-Locking Viewing Platform, Nuodeng Town, Yunlong County, Dali Bai Autonomous Prefecture, Yunnan Province] 6:00 PM – Night
Highlights: By evening, most tourists have left, and the village is exceptionally quiet. You can head to the Taiji Water-Locking Viewing Platform east of the village. It's about a 20-minute walk from the village entrance, or you can pay CNY 10 for a ride on a villager's motorcycle. Watch the Bi River wind around the mountain to form a huge "S" shape, resembling a natural Taiji diagram. After dark, there are no streetlights in the village, only scattered lights and the sound of insects. Watching the stars from the terrace of your guesthouse is an excellent choice. In September, the night sky is clear, and the starry sky feels within reach.
Tips: There is no lighting in the village alleys at night, so try to walk in groups and do not wander through the alleys alone. The temperature difference in the mountains is large at night. In September, it is about 25°C during the day, but it may drop to 12–15°C at night, so be sure to bring a light jacket.
Must-try local food (personally tested)
1. Nuodeng Ham Fried Rice
Full address: Available at many farm-style restaurants in Nuodeng Ancient Village; the Big Green Tree Inn restaurant is one I personally tested
Average cost: CNY 20–30
Must-order signature dishes: Ham fried rice, stir-fried Nuodeng ham with green peppers
Real review: Made with 3-year-aged ham cubes stir-fried with local red rice and green garlic sprouts. The ham oil permeates every grain of rice, full of "wok hei" (breath of the wok), salty and savory with a sweet aftertaste, not greasy at all. Eating the ham slices raw is also worth a try; choose ham aged 3+ years and pair it with cantaloupe for a rich, layered texture. You can get full at farm-style restaurants for CNY 25–40 per person; no need to buy expensive ham at the specialty shops at the village entrance.
2. Ham Stewed with Free-Range Chicken
Full address: Farmhouses in Nuodeng Ancient Village (such as Nuodeng Salt Spring Farmhouse, etc.)
Average cost: CNY 50–60
Must-order signature dishes: Ham stewed with free-range chicken, cold dish with tree moss
Real review: The ham and free-range chicken are stewed together, resulting in a golden broth with a deep, savory flavor—"no need to add salt to the soup." The cold dish with tree moss is sour, spicy, and appetizing; it's a local specialty side dish. It is recommended to book in advance with the guesthouse owner and have it stewed fresh on the day.
Complete practical guide
Transport guide
Full legitimate travel: Dali Xiaguan Xingsheng Road Bus Station → Minibus to Yunlong County (CNY 42, about 3 hours) → Transfer to a microbus or electric tricycle to the village (CNY 20–25, about 15 minutes). Within the village, you rely entirely on walking. The stone paths are sloped; luggage can be transported by mule (about CNY 10 per trip). Do not trust any solicitors or "one-day tour" promoters at the scenic area entrance.
Accommodation recommendations
Prefer guesthouses in the core area of the ancient village for convenience and to experience the village at night and in the morning. The Big Green Tree Inn is located next to the Big Green Tree in the center of the village, about 200 meters uphill to Yuhuang Pavilion; the location is excellent. Nuodeng Original Color Guesthouse is located at No. 18 in the ancient village; the courtyard environment is good, and guest ratings are generally above 4.8. It is recommended to book one week in advance, as the number of rooms in ancient village guesthouses is generally limited.
Real pitfall avoidance guide
1. Refuse locals at the village entrance who offer to lead the way or sell ham; it's easy to get overcharged.
2. Do not buy high-priced ham at specialty shops at the village entrance; it is more practical to buy directly from farmers or guesthouse owners.
3. For ticket reservations, stick to official scenic area channels; you can buy the Yuhuang Pavilion joint ticket at the official scenic area window.
4. The number of tourists is not large in early September, but it is still recommended to arrive early in the morning on weekends to avoid the crowds for the best experience.
Essential items (September exclusive)
In September, Nuodeng is about 25°C during the day and 12–15°C in the morning and evening. Essentials: Non-slip sneakers (the stone paths are sloped and may be slippery), a light jacket (large temperature difference between day and night), sunscreen and sunglasses, a power bank (signal on the mountainside is weak and drains battery quickly), and a small amount of cash (some farmhouses do not support QR code payments).
This early September trip to Nuodeng was relaxing and healing, with a slow pace. It's niche and uncrowded, the food is great, and at about CNY 350 per person, it's highly cost-effective. It is very suitable for friends who want to avoid the crowds in Dali and enjoy authentic ancient villages and slow-paced travel. The entire guide is based on real experience, and beginners can follow it directly.