Between Heaven and Water: A Tale of Two Monasteries

Two monasteries stand on the shores of Lake Sevan. However, while Sevanavank is the postcard image of Armenia—teeming with crowds and souvenir stalls—Hayravank is a place where you can truly catch your breath. And honestly, the latter is much more worth your time. Sevanavank: A Beautiful but Challenging Climb The monastery sits on a peninsula (formerly an island), reached by a long staircase of about 230 steps. Once you reach the top, you're rewarded with that iconic view: the vast bowl of the lake, mountains on the horizon, and the biting wind. The foundation of the cloister is traditionally attributed to Gregory the Illuminator (305 AD), though the surviving Surb Arakelots and Surb Astvatsatsin churches were built in 874 by Princess Mariam. These are austere, cross-domed structures made of black basalt with domes of rusty-brown tuff. Sevanavank was once a vital spiritual and educational hub, hosting a school and, by the 15th century, an academy comparable to Tatev University. Today, however, it is the most visited monastery on the lake: you’ll find parking and rows of sweets and souvenirs below, and groups of guided tours above. The one thing guidebooks often fail to mention is the climb. Those 230 steps are under the direct sun with no shade, and the stones beneath your feet radiate heat. In the peak of summer, this isn't a "scenic entrance"—it's a workout. It can be especially difficult for the elderly, those with knee issues, or families with small children. If you’re visiting in July or August, it’s best to go early in the morning or late in the evening. Hayravank: Quieter, Older, and More Soulful Located on the western shore, south of Sevanavank, Hayravank immediately sets a different tone. The monastery stands on a rocky outcrop, offering a wider and more intimate view of the lake. The main church dates back to the 9th–10th centuries, with the gavit (narthex) added later in the 12th–13th centuries. The walls are built from rough, lichen-covered stone, giving the complex an older, "wilder" appearance compared to the well-manicured Sevanavank. The name "Hayravank" is often translated as "Cave Monastery"—legend has it that it was once connected to the nearby Spitak Berd fortress by an underground passage. Another story tells of a monk named Ovan who saved the local people from Tamerlane by transforming them into pigeons (giving rise to its other name, Mardakhavnyats). Ancient khachkars (cross-stones) and tombstones are scattered around the monastery, with the ruins of monastic cells lying just beyond the walls. There is no hustle and bustle here; you can simply sit on a stone by the wall and watch the water. Which to Choose Sevanavank is a must-see, but let’s be honest: the climb is strenuous, especially in the heat. If you aren't feeling physically up to it or are visiting at midday in the summer, stick to the cooler hours. Hayravank is much more accessible in that regard. It sits on a low cliff right by the water, the walk is short, and even in the heat, you aren't "hiking a mountain"—you're just stepping up a few meters. Plus, you’re surrounded by silence, ancient khachkars, and no pushy vendors. If you're looking for soulfulness and less exhaustion, Hayravank wins on both counts. Sevanavank is worth seeing once, but Hayravank is the place you'll want to come back to.