Reverse tourism during the National Day holiday | An unexpected discovery: a "mini-Dunhuang" hidden near Shijiazhuang?
Forget the crowded Forbidden City in Beijing this National Day holiday! Just an hour by high-speed train, I discovered a hidden gem near Shijiazhuang: Zhengding Ancient City. It boasts the essence of ancient architecture from the Tang and Song dynasties, praised by Liang Sicheng as "the foremost temple outside Beijing," and is brimming with authentic local flavors. Two days of exploring and eating won't be enough—it's definitely worth the trip!
🚗 Two-Day In-Depth Tour of Ancient Architecture and Food:
Day 1: Focus on Longxing Temple, Enjoy the Ancient City's Charm at Night
- Morning: First Encounter with the Ancient City, Try the Time-Honored Brands
Upon arrival, head straight to Wangquan Ancient Street. The century-old "Wang Family Shaomai" is a must-try! The lotus leaf-pleated shaomai skin is paper-thin; biting into it releases a burst of savory beef and mutton broth—it's so delicious you'll want to stomp your feet! Pair it with the "Bald Li Ganglu Shaobing" next door—the outer layer is crispy and crumbly, the inside layered, and the savory aroma fills your nose. It's best eaten fresh out of the oven.
- Afternoon: Immerse yourself in Longxing Temple and discover its "Six Ancient Architectural Wonders"
Dedicate the entire afternoon to Longxing Temple, focusing on these six treasures: the reclining Guanyin in the Mani Hall (her gentle gaze is breathtaking), the rotating revolving sutra repository, the "First Sui Dynasty Stele" of Longzang Temple, the 21.3-meter-tall Thousand-Handed and Thousand-Eyed Guanyin, the exquisitely layered bronze Vairocana Buddha, and the still stunning murals on the walls despite their faded appearance. A guided tour or audio guide is highly recommended to avoid missing details.
- Evening: Watch the sunset from the city wall and enjoy a "ceremonial" dinner
Climb the ancient city wall of Zhengding and watch the sunset paint the ancient pagodas golden red—every snapshot is a masterpiece. Afterwards, head straight to "Song Ji Eight Bowls," where four meat dishes and four vegetable dishes are steamed for eight hours, the braised pork knuckle is tender and falls off the bone, and the meatballs burst with juice when you bite into them. Served with mixed grain rice, every bite is a taste of home-style cooking passed down for a thousand years.
- Night: Stroll through the night market, grab some skewers, and pack some late-night snacks. The South Gate Square has a fantastic atmosphere after the lights come on. Head to the small commodity night market for some freshly grilled lamb skewers, and pack some "Sun's Pig Trotters" to go – sticky, savory, and delicious. Back at the guesthouse, enjoy them while reflecting on the ancient buildings you visited during the day – pure bliss!
Day 2: Explore history at the Four Pagodas and One Mansion, eating your way through the night.
- Morning: A bowl of old tofu awakens your taste buds. Get up early and head to "Niu's Old Tofu" in the alley. The tofu, made with brine, is incredibly tender. Topped with their secret salty brine, a spoonful of chili oil, and cilantro, one bite is bursting with flavor. Perfect with a fried dough stick.
- Morning: Ancient Pagoda Tour, Exploring Different Styles
Start your "Four Pagodas Check-in": Lingxiao Pagoda (Tang Dynasty style, climb to the top for panoramic views), Hua Pagoda (most uniquely shaped, resembling a flower), Xumi Pagoda (the oldest pagoda in Zhengding), and Chengling Pagoda (small and exquisite, holding stories of Zhengding). Each pagoda has its own history, so take your time and appreciate the details.
- Noon: Must-Try Hao Family Ribs, Gnaw to Your Heart's Content
Head straight to Hao Family Ribs (Yanzhao South Street Main Store). The ribs, braised in a secret old broth, are a vibrant red, the meat falling off the bone with a gentle touch, the sauce is savory with a hint of sweetness, and even the bones are flavorful. Be sure to order the "Hot Sliced Meatballs," dipped in garlic sauce, for an incredibly rich meaty flavor. Pair them with a bowl of corn porridge to cleanse your palate.
- Afternoon: Explore the Rongguo Mansion and enjoy a refreshing bowl of buckwheat cake.
Visit the Rongguo Mansion and find the filming locations for the 1987 TV series *Dream of the Red Chamber*—the place where Daiyu buried flowers and Baoyu's Yihong Courtyard. After a long walk, buy some "Zhengding buckwheat cake" at the entrance. The cake, made from buckwheat and cut into small pieces, is mixed with minced garlic, aged vinegar, and sesame oil—a refreshing and appetizing treat to relieve fatigue from exploring the garden.
- Before heading home: Pick up a braised chicken as a souvenir. Head to the "Ma Family Braised Chicken" shop on Chengde South Street and buy a 300-year-old braised chicken in their traditional broth. The skin is springy, the meat is firm, and even the bones are infused with the rich flavor of the braising sauce. Vacuum-packed for easy transport, it's perfect for personal enjoyment or as a gift.
🍜 Must-Try Foods in Zhengding (with Food Spots)
1. Hearty Dishes (Ideal for Group Meals/Satiates)
- Hao Family Ribs: Main branch on Yanzhao South Street, a favorite among locals. The ribs are stewed to perfection.
- Songji Eight Bowls: Available à la carte or as a set meal; vacuum-packed, makes a great souvenir.
- Ma's Braised Chicken: The original shop on Chengde South Street is the most authentic; even Empress Dowager Cixi praised it. Make sure you buy from the correct branch.
2. Local Specialties (Essential for food lovers, cheap and authentic)
- Benggan (Benggan): A non-heritage shop on Wangquan South Street. The pig liver is sliced as thin as hair, fried, and then seasoned. The more you chew, the more fragrant it becomes—unique in the country.
- Zhengshun Wonton: Buckwheat noodles pressed using a traditional millstone, topped with beef gravy—chewy and smooth. Also a non-heritage delicacy; perfect with a sesame flatbread.
- Clay Oven Sesame Flatbread: Besides "Bald Li," the stalls in the alleys are also good. Freshly baked and sold, you can even eat it with pig's head meat—double the savory flavor!
3. Food Streets (One-stop shopping, no disappointments)
- Wangquan Ancient Street: A hub of time-honored brands, offering shumai, wontons, braised liver, and braised dishes, perfect for breakfast and lunch.
- Longxing Temple Street: Adjacent to the scenic area, convenient for eating after visiting Longxing Temple. Eight-bowl feast, donkey meat sandwiches, and old-fashioned tofu are all easily accessible.
- Small Commodity Night Market: Lively at night, featuring trendy snacks and local skewers, perfect for late-night snacks at affordable prices.
💡 Useful Tips
- Transportation: After arriving at Shijiazhuang Station by high-speed rail, transfer to Metro Line 3 or bus 177 to reach Zhengding. Rent a bicycle or electric scooter within the ancient city for easier sightseeing and finding local snacks.
- Accommodation: Choose a guesthouse within the ancient city, such as near Wangquan Ancient Street. This allows you to easily access the night market and late-night snacks without having to travel far. Some guesthouses even offer views of the ancient city wall at night. - Guided Tours: For cultural attractions like Longxing Temple and Rongguo Mansion, it's recommended to hire a guide for 50-100 yuan. You'll hear many hidden stories about the stone tablets and buildings, making it more interesting than visiting on your own.
- Discounts: There are combined tickets for the attractions (Longxing Temple + Rongguo Mansion + Four Pagodas), saving 30-50 yuan compared to buying individual tickets. Some restaurants offer a 10% discount with your attraction ticket; remember to ask before paying.
No need to squeeze into the Forbidden City or travel far. In Zhengding, you can witness the awe-inspiring ancient architecture and savor authentic local flavors—this National Day holiday, dedicate your time to this "treasure trove of ancient architecture + culinary paradise"—it's definitely worth it!