Like you, I often misjudge ancient cities with high aesthetic appeal because of their names, and Yanguan, the City of Tide Music, is one of them. Scattered among the crisscrossing waterways are several ancient buildings dating back to the Tang Dynasty and beyond. This is a true ancient city hidden along the Qiantang River.
By October, the summer heat has dissipated, the sun's direct rays continue to move south, and the peak heat waves have receded like the crowds after the National Day holiday. The lower solar altitude allows soft, layered side lighting to penetrate deep into the ancient buildings and gardens. Yes, now is the perfect time to visit the City of Tide Music.
ℹ️ Practical Information
🚇 You can take the intercity railway (Hangzhou-Haining Intercity Railway) from Hangzhou for a day trip, though I recommend 2 days to explore the 5 national heritage sites.
🏨 Stay at a hotel within the scenic area and use your check-in voucher for unlimited rides on the shuttle bus.
🔄 Tested 2-day ancient architecture tour
D1 Check in at the hotel ➠ Wang Guowei's Former Residence ➠ Jin Yong Library ➠ Confucian Temple ➠ Sea God Temple ➠ Tide-Watching Park
D2 Gongchen Gate ➠ City God Temple ➠ Chen Gelao Residence
Here are 7 travel tips from Lu Make~
❶ A true ancient city
For 1,370 years, the layout of the prefecture-level city surrounded by water has remained as square and upright as ever. From Wang Guowei to Jin Yong and Chen Yuanlong, the city's history isn't just on the information plaques on the walls, but in the real former residences scattered throughout the city.
❷ You must stay for 2 days
The light in Yanguan in autumn has its own "shift schedule." In the afternoon, the western side light spreads across the Sea God Temple and the Confucian Temple, while in the morning, the dawn light passes through the latticed windows of the Chen Gelao Residence. Wood, stone, and shadow perform a symphony in these century-old residences; light and shadow are the perfect curators.
❸ High-level exhibitions with a single theme
The permanent exhibition at Wang Guowei's Former Residence, "Alone on the High Tower," is taken from the first realm of his Renjian Cihua (Talks on Poetry in the Human World), 4 characters that sum up his lifelong scholarly detachment. I am more fond of the Jin Yong Library; wandering along the corridors, past a pond of rockeries and half-pavilions by the water, the osmanthus trees planted by Jin Yong himself are now in full fragrance.
❹ People are the scale for ancient architecture
Inside the main hall of the Sea God Temple, you realize the sheer scale of this classic Qing Dynasty official architecture. Modeled after the Hall of Supreme Harmony, it is known as the "Silver Palace." It has a bit more of the open, elegant charm of Jiangnan compared to the Forbidden City, with a sense of ancient grandeur hitting you immediately. Look up at the painted ceiling panels, look down at the white marble drum stones carved with tidal wave patterns—even the stones are telling stories of the tide.
❺ The textbook "Watching the Tide" only tells half the story
The Zhan'ao Pagoda by the river has stood for 400 years, renamed "Zhenhai" (Sea Suppressing) after being rebuilt by Emperor Kangxi. From the legend of Wu Zixu driving the tide to the story of Qian Liu shooting arrows at the tide, and then to the sacrifices at the Sea God Temple, the ancients' attitude toward the tide has always been complex: fearing it, suppressing it, and yet revering it as a god. The faith of an ancient city lies entirely in the ebb and flow of the Qiantang River.
❻ Ancient architectural aesthetics are the main course
Emperor Qianlong visited Jiangnan 6 times and stopped in Yanguan 4 times; everyone knows the "Legend of the Swapped Son." The people are gone, the houses are silent, but the wooden windows speak. In the morning, autumn light filters through the latticed windows, gilding the residences in gold leaf. Jiangnan architecture is full of clever details: chicken-comb ridges, fire doors; doors, frames, bridges, and lanterns layer the scenery, leaving the lingering charm of Anlan Garden in this small space.
❼ "Ancient aesthetics"
Entering the ancient city automatically turns on "eye-protection mode." The reason for recommending an overnight stay is simple: the night lighting is extremely friendly. The fire hydrants that should be hidden are well-concealed, living up to expectations. After the ancient buildings fade into the blue hour, the music of the City of Tide Music and street performances take the stage. A trip to the City of Tide Music is worth splitting into 2 days.
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